I am in the middle of a new set of Victorian Underwear, and I don't have progress pictures of the first 4 pieces, but I can at least document from here in the hopes that it is helpful for someone (either generally, or since I know at least 2 people who are planning on using this same pattern themselves). I will also get to document the chemise, since I am planning to re-do it in the near future with the new Truly Victorian chemise pattern, instead of the old one. So far I have chemise, drawers, corset and under petticoat (not pictured, it was finished after this was taken) finished:
The next part is the bustle. I will be using the Laughing Moon #112 Hoops and Bustles pattern, View D:
After determining by my hip measurement I need a size 20. The pattern has both waist and hip charts for the size but since I am going to cut a waistband that will fit my waist with my corset on, and since the front isn't attached to anything it really doesn't matter how big the waistband is, what matters is that the bustle fits my hips.
Reading through the instructions, which is always a good idea before you do anything with a new pattern, I noticed that there is a typo with the pieces, on the view to pattern piece guide it has 14, 15, 16, 17 but when I look at the beginning of the section of instructions for View D, I noticed that I also need piece 12. My pattern was purchased many years ago and I am sure it is corrected in the newer versions:
I don't like to cut pattern tissue for multi-size patterns, partly because I like to be able to use them again later and partly because the pattern tissue survives better when left intact, so I trace off what I need, after ironing the tissue flat with the lowest iron setting and the steam off. To trace I use rolls of tracing paper from the craft store (it doesn't have to be heavy, just something that's easy to see through).
I transfer all the markings, including the clips for alignment, grain line and in this case steel bone casing marks. When I do the alignment clips, I never make them diamonds like they are on the pattern, I just use the half that's inside the pattern and then I just make a single clip to the middle for each one, really that's all you need and it's much faster. I label the pattern piece with everything to know where it came from, which piece it is and what size I traced.
After tracing all the pieces that I will need I put the pattern in a new manila envelope. I have never been successful getting patterns back into the half size envelopes they come in, so I gave up and store them like this instead.
Next, before I cut the traced pieces out, I will make any adjustments that I need to make. In this case I will be deviating from the pattern in several ways. I will be making this to match my corset, which is purple twill with a cotton organdy sheer overlay. Instead of the 1/4" hem allowance in the original pattern, I will be doing a 1/2" bias binding on the edges, to make this work, I am going to go ahead and add 1/2" to the bottom of all 3 of the main pieces, that will give me space for the bottom steel casing and the binding:
The other big changes that I will be making are that I will be putting the casings on before I put the main parts (15 & 16) together, and they will be pieced instead of a whole bias strip. This is so that the sewing lines for the steel casings won't show on the outside. (Why yes, I am being fancy :P some day I will hopefully get to wear this to the Underwear Breakfast at Costume College). I will also be doing some embroidery to match the design on the corset and I will be making a waistband out of the twill instead of using a ribbon.
After making the adjustments, I cut the pattern out of the tracing paper and am ready to cut fabric. I pre cut the tracing paper because my preferred method of cutting fabric is rotary cutter and it tends to snag and tear the paper if I don't.
