Bustle - Cutting Out and Embroidery

When we last left off, I had finished the flat pattern work and was ready to cut everything out.  I prefer to use a rotary cutter for cutting as much as possible, it's much faster.  I have a set of weights that I use to hold down the fabric instead of having to pin it.

Since I had already used this fabric for my corset, I had to be very careful to get everything out and also make sure that I had enough left on the far end, which is already cut at a 45 angle to do bias strips, to get the bias strips out for this.  I managed it, carefully.  I also made sure to leave a strip at the top for the waistband, since the pattern has that made out of ribbon, there isn't a pattern piece for it.  This will be done to match the corset, so I also cut the main pieces out of the cotton organdy (which I acquired from Puresilks.us and it came from India, so shipping took a bit, but it was totally worth it):

The piece closest to the back of the table is the one that will be getting embroidered, so I didn't cut that one out, I only traced around the bottom of the pattern and then left it whole:

It turned out to be a very good thing that I didn't cut this any farther to begin with, as you will see in a minute.  I traced around the bottom of the pattern on both pieces of fabric so that I had a right and a left.  I used my new favorite pen to do this, the FriXion pen, which is amazing for quite a few applications, though it doesn't work well on dark fabrics.

The next bit was interesting, I picked the hoop for my embroidery machine that fit this section the best and looked at where the curve was hitting.  I then used my embroidery software, Embird, to make a curved version of the designs I have been working with, which are from Martha Pullen's Kent State Museum bundle.

As you can see, my first attempt at getting the curve right didn't work, I didn't curve it enough.  I changed the design, moved the hoop up a little and tried again.

It is a very subtle change, but it was enough to get it to fit nicely in the bottom.  I then flipped the design around and did the second side.  Here they are finished and ready for assembly:

New Bustle

It occurred to me today as I was talking to a friend in our local costume guild who is new to sewing, that it might be helpful if I got back to doing a blog on my sewing projects, so here I am!

I am in the middle of a new set of Victorian Underwear, and I don't have progress pictures of the first 4 pieces, but I can at least document from here in the hopes that it is helpful for someone (either generally, or since I know at least 2 people who are planning on using this same pattern themselves).  I will also get to document the chemise, since I am planning to re-do it in the near future with the new Truly Victorian chemise pattern, instead of the old one.  So far I have chemise, drawers, corset and under petticoat (not pictured, it was finished after this was taken) finished:

The next part is the bustle.  I will be using the Laughing Moon #112 Hoops and Bustles pattern, View D:

After determining by my hip measurement I need a size 20.  The pattern has both waist and hip charts for the size but since I am going to cut a waistband that will fit my waist with my corset on, and since the front isn't attached to anything it really doesn't matter how big the waistband is, what matters is that the bustle fits my hips.

Reading through the instructions, which is always a good idea before you do anything with a new pattern, I noticed that there is a typo with the pieces, on the view to pattern piece guide it has 14, 15, 16, 17 but when I look at the beginning of the section of instructions for View D, I noticed that I also need piece 12.  My pattern was purchased many years ago and I am sure it is corrected in the newer versions:

I don't like to cut pattern tissue for multi-size patterns, partly because I like to be able to use them again later and partly because the pattern tissue survives better when left intact, so I trace off what I need, after ironing the tissue flat with the lowest iron setting and the steam off.  To trace I use rolls of tracing paper from the craft store (it doesn't have to be heavy, just something that's easy to see through).

I transfer all the markings, including the clips for alignment, grain line and in this case steel bone casing marks.  When I do the alignment clips, I never make them diamonds like they are on the pattern, I just use the half that's inside the pattern and then I just make a single clip to the middle for each one, really that's all you need and it's much faster.  I label the pattern piece with everything to know where it came from, which piece it is and what size I traced. 

After tracing all the pieces that I will need I put the pattern in a new manila envelope.  I have never been successful getting patterns back into the half size envelopes they come in, so I gave up and store them like this instead.

Next, before I cut the traced pieces out, I will make any adjustments that I need to make.  In this case I will be deviating from the pattern in several ways.  I will be making this to match my corset, which is purple twill with a cotton organdy sheer overlay.  Instead of the 1/4" hem allowance in the original pattern, I will be doing a 1/2" bias binding on the edges, to make this work, I am going to go ahead and add 1/2" to the bottom of all 3 of the main pieces, that will give me space for the bottom steel casing and the binding:

The other big changes that I will be making are that I will be putting the casings on before I put the main parts (15 & 16) together, and they will be pieced instead of a whole bias strip.  This is so that the sewing lines for the steel casings won't show on the outside.  (Why yes, I am being fancy :P some day I will hopefully get to wear this to the Underwear Breakfast at Costume College).  I will also be doing some embroidery to match the design on the corset and I will be making a waistband out of the twill instead of using a ribbon. 

After making the adjustments, I cut the pattern out of the tracing paper and am ready to cut fabric.  I pre cut the tracing paper because my preferred method of cutting fabric is rotary cutter and it tends to snag and tear the paper if I don't.

Finishing up and starting new

I haven't posted in awhile, but I have been somewhat busy. I finally finished one of the knitting projects I have been working on, a ribbed scarf for my mother in law for Christmas:

Now, I can finally start knitting baby things, I just started a bootie, this is the first time I have done circular knitting and it took a bit to figure it out, but it's looking good so far:
This is the practice pair, I have some really beautiful yarn to do another pair with a matching hat too.

On the sewing side, I am working on making fitted cloth diapers and doublers:Still need to make lots more of these....I am also planning on making flannel wipes, and I have a bunch of other plans too, we'll see how much I get done!

Knitting Progress Update

I have been slowly working on my sweater, I started with the back and am working my way up:

I have also been working on a striped scarf out of the yarn that I got to practice for the sweater:
I should have an actual sewing update later today, I finished the tailored blouse I was working on and am starting a bunch of linen trousers and short for the summer.

Finished Victorian Collars

I finally finished the 2 collars for my dad's Victorian shirts, I am quite happy with the Pro-Woven interfacing that I used, it is a light weight, yet stiff interfacing, specifically for things like collars and cuffs. I am consistently amazed that when the proper ingredients are used to make things, the results are usually superior.

Scarf Photo

My cousin, who received the scarf that was my first knitting project as a Christmas gift, was kind enough to take this beautiful picture of it.

Finished 2nd knitting project

This is supposed to be my sewing blog, but somehow more knitting than sewing has been getting done recently, I hope to rectify that this weekend. However, in the mean time, I finished my second sewing project and this time I actually have a picture!

This was a good project after the plain scarf, I had to increase, decrease and figure out how to read a pattern. Now on to the reason for all of this yarn madness - the sweater! My goal is to finish this by next Christmas (I am planning on making it red) so that I can wear it to my husband's family Christmas gathering! I have managed to wear the same thing both of the last 2 years (totally by accident, I swear) and I plan to be wearing something different in 2010!